Frequently Asked Questions

	Frequently asked questions: Here are the most common questions we are asked. If you don't find an answer here then send your inquiry to our technical support. You'll receive a very prompt answer.

	The Color Range The Activators The Process Naturlite

	Cream Activators Grey Coverage

	The Color Range: Do I need to know the basics of color to use OCS? As with any color, yes! The better you know your color wheel and the way color works, the better you will be with any color. Is OCS true to the color wheel or do they need to be played with to achieve a color? What the reflects are, is what you will get. (Without ammonia you no longer have to fight the yellowing effects that are brought about by the corrosive effects of that chemical, thus you have a true to color pallet result.) Why only 47 colors? You can mix the colors to make infinite color combinations, there are 42 colors with 5 concentrates. With all the combinations that can be made from intermixing colors. Your only restriction is your imagination. What if I want something stronger than the AH series, what should I use? Grey concentrate will act as a drabber if you need it. Silver concentrate can be used with the lighter blondes. What is the pH of OCS's colors? 8.5 – 9.2 – stable pH that does not change. The high lift blondes are the 9.2. Is it an oxidative color process? Yes it is. Why do you need Ash tones if you don't get the warmth you would with ammonia? For color correction as well as creating an ash or cool look. Can I use a color accelerator? No. Do not use color accelerators because it is essentially an ammonia booster. This would defeat the purpose of using an ammonia free color. Can high lift colors be used as a toner? Yes. If you use it with semi or demi formula. Can I use this color over another brand of color? Yes, you can definitely use this color over other brands. Remember this is a non-damaging color, not a restructuring treatment. If the hair has been negatively affected by ammonia based colors, OCS will not change that, but it will not add to the damage. How thick is the product. Is it a cream or gel? The product is a liquid which turns to a gel when you mix it with the activators. The more you mix it, the thicker it becomes. You have the ability to adjust the thickness to whatever you want.



	The Activators What is an Activator? Pharmaceutical grade Hydrogen Peroxide. (H2O2) The Activators come in varying strengths to give you varying degrees of lift and deposit. What would happen in a pinch if I used another company's peroxide? It would work but it would be an inferior product producing inferior results. The Activators have been specifically designed to work with OCS colors. Much research has been put into producing the finest level of quality available in all aspects of the system. Can activators be mixed to achieve different effects? Yes What are the corresponding peroxide volumes with Activators 1, 2, and 3? Activator 1 is 6% or 20 vol. Activator 2 is 9% or 30 vol. Activator 3 is 12% or 40 vol. Activator 0 is a special formula for use with Activator 1 for demi and semi results. What is Activator 0 for? It is to be used in conjunction with Activator 1 for demi and semi results. Activator 0 is a diluter, not truly an activator as it contains no peroxide.



	The Process: How much product do I use? That depends on the hair. The thickness and length have a bearing on how much product you will need, as with any product. How much concentrate can I use? Up to 30%. Can concentrates be used alone? Not as a rule – they won't stay. Do I always use equal amounts of Activator when mixing colors? Yes. As a rule that's the way to mix OCS. The exceptions are: resistant grey hair -you use slightly less activator than color. Example - 50mls of color to 40mls of Activator. High lift blondes require double the amount of activator to color. Example – 50mls of color to 100mls of activator #3. Do I use Activator 1 or 2 with Naturlite? You don't use either – you would use the specially formulated Cream Activators. These cream activators are designed to give you maximum performance and workability with lightening the hair. Is OCS applied with bowl and brush, or a bottle? Whichever you prefer - as long as you have ample product on the hair to allow for sufficient coverage and penetration the choice is yours. Do all OCS colors process in the same amount of time? No. Normal coloring is 30 minutes total time: 10 minutes with heat plus 20 minutes without heat. High lifts are 45 minutes. Total time = 10 minutes with heat plus 35 minutes without heat. What happens if I take it off early? You won't get the same penetration and the color won't last as long as it could. Why do I need to use heat? To open the outside cuticle layer of the hair and to allow for penetration. Does this heat damage the hair? No. Only gentle heat is used – low to medium heat, 100° F – 37° C. Why is it important to use gentle heat for a full 10 minutes? To gently open the outside cuticle layers of the hair so that the color can penetrate into the cortex. This is the primary function of Ammonia and since it has been eliminated you must apply the heat for the full 10 minutes. Why is it important to massage the color in at the basin? To remove the oils that are used to soften the cuticle layer of the hair allowing it to open when placed under a warm dryer. If you don't remove the oils completely you will not be able to close the cuticle layer back down and the color will not last as long as it should. When you are doing low lights and highlights at the same time do you massage? Not if you are doing bright red(s) and blonde – the colors could bleed.



	Naturlite Lightening Powder How does Naturlite lift without ammonia? Potassium Persolphate. This is a much gentler compound than Ammonia Sulphate. Why call it bleach if it is ammonia free? It's not called a bleach – it is called a lightening powder. While it could be said that the words are interchangeable, we choose to call our lightening powder exactly that. Can Naturlite really produce blondes? Yes, as with any lightening powder the level of lift you get is relative to where you are coming from in the first place, (level of color to begin with) along with how long it is left on the hair. In a pinch, could I use Activator 1, 2, or 3 with Naturlite? No – it will go flaky and give you an unsatisfactory result. Do I use Activator 1 or 2 with Naturlite? You don't use either – you would use the specially formulated Cream Activators. These cream activators are designed to give you maximum performance and workability with lightening the hair. Will Naturlite pull out the colors as well? Yes. As will products like Modulate, etc. Can Naturlite be used over other lightening products? Yes. When using foils with the color do you have to use a cap on top of the foils? It is not necessary to use a cap if you are using the foils because they are already protected. What is the mixing ratio for Naturlite and the cream activators? Roughly the same amount – the desired consistency is usually yogurt.



	Cream Activators What are the corresponding peroxide volumes with Cream Activators 6% and 9%? Cream Activator 6% or 20 vol. Cream Activator 9% or 30 vol.



	Grey Coverage What is the best way to approach resistant grey hair? You can use 6% cream activator. This will allow for more consistent coverage, which is imperative when covering grey. Also, use slightly less activator than color. Example - 50mls of color to 40mls of Activator. What if my grey clients don't cover – what can I do? Use Q Hydrate Shampoo first, then apply the color on dry or slightly damp hair. Applying product to wet hair dilutes it. Return to the top If this page hasn't answered your question then send a message via our contacts page. Please supply as much information as possible.